WINDOW FELTS: When replacing the window felts in the runners’ channels, it is quite normal at first for the windows to bind and not slide smoothly up and down. If this happens, use French chalk or talcum powder but NEVER use any oil-based product including oil itself. |
WINDOW WINDING PROBLEMS:
The difficulty in
operating the window of an Austin
Seven may be due to the moulding rail inside the door being slightly bent to
put pressure on the glass. By resetting it the trouble with the window
should be overcome. Also examine the channels on either side of the window
in which the glass rises. These may be binding to make the action of the
window stiff. If they are opened slightly and a trace of thick grease
applied in the bed of each channel the stiffness should be eased. If
attention to these two points fails to correct the trouble, the winding
mechanism may be at fault due to rust resulting from the intrusion of
moisture. Access to this mechanism necessitates removing the winding handle,
which can be detached by levering the small spring catch behind the handle
away from the spindle with which it engages. A loop of wire is sometimes
useful for doing this. The waist-line moulding inside the door and the door
catch are both held by screws which are quite easily removed, and the panel
itself, which is held by screws or panel pins, can be prised away from the
door. The winding mechanism can then be examined and thoroughly greased to
render its action quite free. From the Austin Magazine. TIGHTENING DOOR HINGES ADDENDUM From Roge Bateman: Members may be
interested in the inserts, which I have used to great effect many times
in my old cars. Unlike Rawlplugs, they screw in and can’t pull out.
Instead of a wood screw, they take a machine screw and I usually fit a
raised countersunk slotted type for the best appearance. The insert has
a gentle taper on the outside to ensure a snug fit. To use, simply
enlarge the damaged hole using a drill that is approximately equal to
the diameter half way along the root of the outside thread, not the
crest of the threads, and screw the insert in flush with an Allen key.
The centre bore is threaded to accept the machine screw. I have never
needed to Araldite them in and the machine screw can be removed as often
as required. These inserts are available in various sizes on eBay at
about £6 for twenty. Search on ‘Threaded Wood Inserts Type D’. |
FROST FREE WINDOWS: To keep your windscreen clear in frosty weather and to help your windscreen wiper in the snow, lift the offside of the bonnet and, using a wedge or piece of card between the bonnet and scuttle and close the bonnet again. You will now have a small gap which will let the hot air from the engine keep your windscreen warm! |
ADDITIONAL BULKHEAD: In an A7 Chummy, install an additional bulkhead forward of the fuel tank to affix any extraneous new fittings such turn-indicator units, additional fuses etc. (I find screwing these directly to the existing bulkhead severely worsened my fuel consumption and gives rise to an awful petrol smell!) Make the new bulkhead of good quality ply. However, the base of the contact breaker unit needs to be earthed as wood isn’t the best electrical conductor. |
BEZELS:
Do you have a missing or damaged bezel from your petrol gauge or oil
pressure gauge? They are the same size and fitting as Lucas temperature
gauges fitted to 1970's Mini's, albeit a slightly different style. |
SPARE WHEEL:
It is essential that the
spare wheel be placed in the rear compartment with the |
LONG LEGS: There may be others large like me (6ft 6ins and 16 stone) who struggle to get in and out of an A7 comfortably and may benefit from our modification: We have removed the old battery and box from below the driving seat, relocating it below the passenger seat. The driving seat can consequently be dropped and pushed back to rest against the rear seat. The new, low maintenance, 6 volt battery is available on e-bay at Tanya Batteries.Optima Red-Top RTS 2.1. Tim Parry DA7C |
GEAR STICK RATTLE:
wrap one turn of electrical
insulation tape around the cup at the base of the gear stick under the
cover plate, so it stuck to itself, then folded the top of the tape over
the cup rim. Although this stopped most of the noise the cover plate
still rattled against the gear stick itself, so again one turn of tape
around the base of the gear sti![]() ![]() |