TECHNICAL TIPS - BODY

WINDOW FELTS: When replacing the window felts in the runners’ channels, it is quite normal at first for the windows to bind and not slide smoothly up and down.  If this happens, use French chalk or talcum powder but NEVER use any oil-based product including oil itself. 
WINDOW WINDING PROBLEMS: The difficulty in operating the window of an Austin Seven may be due to the moulding rail inside the door being slightly bent to put pressure on the glass. By resetting it the trouble with the window should be overcome. Also examine the channels on either side of the window in which the glass rises. These may be binding to make the action of the window stiff. If they are opened slightly and a trace of thick grease applied in the bed of each channel the stiffness should be eased. If attention to these two points fails to correct the trouble, the winding mechanism may be at fault due to rust resulting from the intrusion of moisture. Access to this mechanism necessitates removing the winding handle, which can be detached by levering the small spring catch behind the handle away from the spindle with which it engages. A loop of wire is sometimes useful for doing this. The waist-line moulding inside the door and the door catch are both held by screws which are quite easily removed, and the panel itself, which is held by screws or panel pins, can be prised away from the door. The winding mechanism can then be examined and thoroughly greased to render its action quite free. From the Austin Magazine.

TIGHTENING DOOR HINGES
The Box passenger door just wasn’t shutting properly anymore, often needing a good slam and, even then, not always catching the latch fully. We all know that’s most probably due to loose hinges and the simple solution is to take off the leather door strap, open the door fully and tighten up the three screws in each hinge. In my case, the screws just kept turning round without biting into the wooden door frame so matchsticks and bigger and longer screws were called for. It seemed to work – at first – until the last job, winding up the window. Yes, the longer screws in the top hinge had penetrated into the window channel slightly and blocked the ascending glass. Having a cup of tea to think it through, I rang Roger Ballard who simply said – “Rawlplugs, old chap. Simple”. And, of course, they were the solution. No matchsticks, no slightly sticking out screw heads, just a neat and very tight solution. Thanks, Roger. Sometimes the obvious solution just evades us, so I thought I would pass it on.

ADDENDUM From Roge Bateman: Members may be interested in the inserts, which I have used to great effect many times in my old cars. Unlike Rawlplugs, they screw in and can’t pull out. Instead of a wood screw, they take a machine screw and I usually fit a raised countersunk slotted type for the best appearance. The insert has a gentle taper on the outside to ensure a snug fit. To use, simply enlarge the damaged hole using a drill that is approximately equal to the diameter half way along the root of the outside thread, not the crest of the threads, and screw the insert in flush with an Allen key. The centre bore is threaded to accept the machine screw. I have never needed to Araldite them in and the machine screw can be removed as often as required. These inserts are available in various sizes on eBay at about £6 for twenty. Search on ‘Threaded Wood Inserts Type D’.
David Whetton DA7C

FROST FREE WINDOWS: To keep your windscreen clear in frosty weather and to help your windscreen wiper in the snow, lift the offside of the bonnet and, using a wedge or piece of card between the bonnet and scuttle and close the bonnet again.  You will now have a small gap which will let the hot air from the engine keep your windscreen warm!
ADDITIONAL BULKHEAD: In an A7 Chummy, install an additional bulkhead forward of the fuel tank to affix any extraneous new fittings such turn-indicator units, additional fuses etc. (I find screwing these directly to the existing bulkhead severely worsened my fuel consumption and gives rise to an awful petrol smell!) Make the new bulkhead of good quality ply.  However, the base of the contact breaker unit needs to be earthed as wood isn’t the best electrical conductor.

BEZELS: Do you have a missing or damaged bezel from your petrol gauge or oil pressure gauge? They are the same size and fitting as Lucas temperature gauges fitted to 1970's Mini's, albeit a slightly different style.

SPARE WHEEL: It is essential that the spare wheel be placed in the rear compartment with the brake drum side of the hub exposed; the wheel clamp can then bear evenly on the rim and the brake drum can be screwed up tight. If the wheel is replaced facing the wrong way, the clamp bears on one or perhaps two of the wire wheel spokes and damage is easily caused.

LONG LEGS: There may be others large like me (6ft 6ins and 16 stone) who struggle to get in and out of an A7 comfortably and may benefit from our modification: We have removed the old battery and box from below the driving seat, relocating it below the passenger seat. The driving seat can consequently be dropped and pushed back to rest against the rear seat. The new, low maintenance, 6 volt battery is available on e-bay at Tanya Batteries.Optima Red-Top RTS 2.1. Tim Parry DA7C
GEAR STICK RATTLE: wrap one turn of electrical insulation tape around the cup at the base of the gear stick under the cover plate, so it stuck to itself, then folded the top of the tape over the cup rim. Although this stopped most of the noise the cover plate still rattled against the gear stick itself, so again one turn of tape around the base of the gear stick still allowed the cover plate to slide down but no more rattles. Nick Kidd DA7C